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trail along the historical Romea Strata route, in the Montalbano hills
Mountain biking between Fucecchio and Vinci along the Romea Strata
Kilometres and kilometres of pretty gravel roads, postcard-like landscapes filled with vineyards and olive groves, charming hamlets where time stands still: these are just a few hints of what to expect along this 45k loop itinerary that sets off from Fucecchio and then winds through the scenic Montalbano hills. Besides Fucecchio, the towns of Cerreto Guidi, Vinci and the little hamlet of Anchiano (that’s where the great Leonardo was born) are also part of the road map.
Outlined for the Fucecchio Bike&Ride edition of the Slow Travel Fest 2019, this trail borrows from the historical route known as the Romea Strata, an ancient path that in medieval times led pilgrims from central and eastern Europe to central Italy, and eventually merged with the Via Francigena right in Fucecchio.
In terms of the level of difficulty, this itinerary can be described as moderately demanding. The gravel and paved roads you’ll cycle on are wide and mostly easy to ride, but keep in mind that the gentle Montalbano hills will often present steep climbs and descents, sometimes shorter, sometimes longer. Of course, if your legs let you down in the middle of a climb, you can always walk, carry your bike, and simply enjoy the view while you recover!
Note that this itinerary also has a 60k variation: you’ll find more details below.
Fucecchio, a castle along the via Francigena
As this is a loop itinerary, we’ll talk about Fucecchio later on. For the moment, just know that Fucecchio is set roughly halfway between Florence and Pisa, that its history is inextricably linked to the Via Francigena, and that the ancient part of town sits on the hillside. The imposing remains of the Salamarzana castle still overlook the town and the surrounding river Arno plain. Enough chitchat, it’s time to go!
The trail departs from Piazza Giuseppe Montanelli, a modern square located right at the bottom of the hill. Ready, set, go!
After a few kilometres, you’ll find yourself riding your bike among vineyards, olive groves, stunning cypress roads and sinuous rolling hills, as promised, and you’ll probably start shouting a lot of wows, without even realizing that you’re doing it. That said, beware: the challenging ups and downs we mentioned earlier also start from the very beginning, so get ready to play around with the gears!
Cerreto Guidi and its UNESCO Medici Villa
After roughly 6 km you’ll spot the skyline of Cerreto Guidi in the distance, to your right. While pedaling, enjoy the view of the photogenic valley that separates you from the town (more vineyards, more olives, more beauty). Cerreto Guidi is set at about km 8 of the itinerary. If you’re up for a break, know that the must-sees in Cerreto are the Medici villa, which happens to be a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the MuMeLoc, or Museum of Local Memory.
After leaving Cerreto Guidi behind, head towards Vinci, Leonardo’s hometown. You’ll get there after about 5 km (km 13 of the itinerary). But as we know that you’re up for more cycling fun, we’ll only skirt Vinci past for the moment. When you’re in front of the Santissima Annunziata church, turn right and enter Via Giacomo Matteotti, then keep going along Via Giacomo Calvi and, in just a few seconds, you’ll be back in the countryside, welcomed by a scenic gravel cypress road.
From Vinci, despite some short downhill slopes, you’ll face a long, gradual ascent of about 8 km. Expect gravel roads at first, including a splendid (but hard) straight uphill route, followed by paved bends among countless olive trees.
Anchiano, where the great Leonardo da Vinci was born
This uphill section will eventually take you to the highest point of this itinerary, at 306 metres above sea level (km 20,5). Once there, get ready for a 2 km steep descent (with lots of bends) as far as Anchiano (km 23), the farmhouse where Leonardo was actually born, in the municipality of Vinci.
The farmhouse now hosts a Leonardo museum. Consider popping in and paying the exhibition a visit.
When you’re ready, get back in the saddle and prepare for a fun steep descent (at times challenging scree slopes) along the Strada Verde/Green Route, the trail hiking/cycling trail that connects Anchiano and Vinci.
Vinci, a sort of diffused museum dedicated Leonardo
After 2 km (km 24.5 of the itinerary) you’ll reach Vinci. At this point, it might be the right time to have something to eat.
While in town, check out the Conti Guidi castle and its high tower, which you can climb; the Leonardo museum; the church of Santa Croce (home to the baptismal font in which Leonardo da Vinci was baptized); Piazza dei Conti Guidi (designed by famous contemporary artist Mimmo Paladino); and don’t forget to stop by the massive sculpture of the Vitruvian Man in Piazza Guido Masi.
In Vinci, make sure you recharge your batteries. Consider that the way back to Fucecchio is a 20 km ride: you’ll be immersed in the countryside, mostly on gravel roads, with no stops or refreshment points along the way. Are you ready to get your wheels really dirty?
Back to Fucecchio
Back in Fucecchio, the itinerary ends in style with a steep climb to reach the towers of the Salamarzana Castle we mentioned earlier, now nestled in the Corsini Park. Set in the town’s historic centre, the Corsini complex also includes the Palazzo of the same name, home to the Civic Museum.
A few metres away, also in the upper part of town, don’t miss Fucecchio’s beautiful churches: the Collegiate Church of San Giovanni Battista, located on top of a monumental stairway in Piazza Vittorio Veneto, and the Abbey of San Salvatore, which towers over the square called Poggio Salamartano.
60k variation including Lamporecchio and the Fucecchio marsh
If you’re brave enough to go for the 60k trail, the town of Lamporecchio and splendid views of the Padule di Fucecchio are also included. In fact, the 40k and the 60k overlap as far as Vinci. The only difference is the stretch that will take you back to Fucecchio from Vinci. You could call it a detour (download the 60k GPS track here).
Lamporecchio is renowned for being the homeland of the tasty brigidini, aniseed crisp wafers that look like potato chips, while the Padule di Fucecchio, or Fucecchio Marsh is a wetland of great natural interest that stretches over 1,800 hectares.
The kml tracks attached to this itinerary were outlined by Gabriele Cury for Ciclica & Slow Travel Fest.
