If you come to Portoferraio on a day that’s not too hot or in the morning when it’s still early, you can hike to the slopes of Monte Volterraio, heading past the Schiopparello and Magazzini beaches; from here, you can walk along the trails before reaching the ruins of an old castle that sits at the top of the mountain.
The main trail that leads to Volterraio Castle is a small but well-marked dirt road, and takes about 45 minutes in total to walk. The effort will be worth it though, with the mountaintop boasting incredible views of the entire Portoferraio bay, from the Torre del Martello to Schiopparello bay. You have to pay to explore the castle ruins, and recent renovations have improved the itinerary and building.
Local legend says that at night, strange apparitions, ghosts and souls of residents past wander through the castle. Ask the islanders: you’ll be sure to hear a story or two.