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Sunset in Volterra
Photo © Riccardo
Photo © Riccardo

Volterra on the trail of vampires (and more!)

A 1-day itinerary in the city chosen by Stephenie Meyer as the setting for New Moon

In recent years, Volterra has entered the imagination of many as the city of the Volturi, the powerful vampire clan at the center of New Moon, the 2ⁿᵈ instalment of the Twilight saga. 
But even those who have never read the Stephenie Meyer novels will find much more than a modern tale in this historic hamlet. Volterra is a city rich in art, stone and silence, where Etruscan history, the Middle Ages and the Renaissance coexist in a unique atmosphere.
Small and well concentrated, Volterra is also great for a day trip from Florence. Let yourself be guided by its landmarks, all of which are quite close to each other and within easy walking distance. Upon arrival, it is worth stopping at Piazza dei Priori, the heart of the city, to get your bearings and begin your visit.

Contents
  • 1.
    Things to see in Volterra
  • 2.
    Volterra for Twilight fans

Things to see in Volterra

Image of Mauro Staccioli’s work in Volterra
Mauro Staccioli’s work in Volterra

Volterra is a walled city located in the area of the Colline Metallifere (Metalliferous Hills), named so since Etruscan times for the presence of copper, lead, silver and zinc.
The Etruscans, who also mined salt here, knew it as Velathri and held some of their most important gatherings here. Many of the testimonies preserved in the city today date back to this extensive period.
After the Roman conquest, Volterra became municipium. Then, in the Middle Ages, it was an episcopal seat, before coming under the influence of Florence and subsequently the Medici family.

Among the stops not to be missed is the Guarnacci Etruscan Museum, which holds one of the most important collections dedicated to this civilization. 
Also from the same period is the striking Porta dell’Arco, dating back to the 4ᵗʰ century BC.

Just outside the center is then the Roman Theater, built in the 1ˢᵗ century BC, adding another layer to the history of the village. 

Likewise worth a visit is the Civic Museum, which houses one of the most important works of the late Volterra Renaissance: the Deposition from the Cross by Rosso Fiorentino, a Mannerist masterpiece from 1521.

Overlooking Piazza dei Priori is the Palazzo dei Priori, a symbol of the city’s civic power and among the most significant medieval public buildings in Tuscany.
Not too far away is the Duomo, sober on the outside and rich with 16ᵗʰ-century works on the inside, as well as the Ecomuseum of Alabaster, which recounts a craftsmanship that is deeply tied to the very identity of the city.
Nearby, you come across an unexpected interchange between landscape and contemporary art, thanks to the environmental works of Mauro Staccioli, inserted into the territory as monumental symbols able to confront the antiquity of the landscape.

Volterra for Twilight fans

Volterra square
Volterra square - Credit: Francesco Sgroi

For readers of the saga, Volterra is above all the town conjured up in New Moon, where Bella runs to when she discovers that Edward wants to give himself up to the vampires who live here, the Volturi. 
Stephenie Meyer actually visited Volterra in 2006 and recognized in its spaces the perfect atmosphere for the novel. Although scenes in the film were shot in Montepulciano, Volterra still proudly claims its connection to the saga.

Those who love Twilight can thus find some of the places recalled in the book, from Piazza dei Priori to the shady alleys that seem to be made on purpose to feed the mysterious charm of the city
All the more reason to visit, without forgetting that, beyond the vampires, this place triumphs in particular for its history and the austere beauty of its spaces.

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