Over the last decade Volterra has appeared on the tourist radar thanks to it being the setting for New Moon, the second part in the Twilight vampire book series. Despite the fact the city has come up with some brilliant New Moon tours to appeal to vampire-fans, "normal people" need not worry. Your neck is safe in Volterra (it's the home of the Volturi coven, but you can always bring a bit of garlic!) and your art-loving side will certainly be satisfied.
Volterra is a small town, and although one could stay there, it's a perfectly do-able day trip by car from Florence. So, what follows is not a strict itinerary but a list of the highlights of Volterra - what to see if you're a "normal person" or if you're a "vampire". You can see everything in one day and still have ample time for a long lunch. Pick up a map at the tourist office in Piazza dei Priori (the main piazza, including the Duomo and the city hall - you can't miss it) to easily locate all the spots below. They are in walking distance of one another.