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Remains of the ancient church of San Caprasio
Photo © Alessio Grazi
Photo © Alessio Grazi

Aulla

A tongue of land between two rivers, a key junction of the Via Francigena

Aulla is located in Lunigiana, a few kilometers from the border with Liguria, on a narrow tongue of land at the confluence of the river Magra the Aulella stream, a decisive place for the civil and religious life of the whole area before the year 1000. At that time, Aulla was already a small village and its importance was linked precisely to its central position along the Via Francigena, both as a pilgrimage road and as a commercial artery. The center of the village had an important role in defending the roads leading from Lucca and Liguria to the Cisa Pass.

What to see in Aulla

Aulla's oldest monument is the Abbazia di San Caprasio (Abbey of San Caprasio), whose first construction dates back to the year 884. Inside the complex is the Museo di San Caprasio (Museum of the Pilgrim of San Caprasio), which houses the findings of recent archaeological excavations that uncovered the saint's tomb in 2003. In the vault of the cloister stands the fascinating "Vangelo di pietra," (Gospel of stone) a display of medieval capitals found here.

A must-see for visitors to the town is the Fortezza della Brunella (Brunella Fortress), named after the hill on which it was built in the mid-16th century. The fort is a typical example of Renaissance-style military architecture, arranged for defense against firearms attacks. It is an almost square building with large polygonal struts that today - after a series of restorations - houses the Museo di Storia Naturale della Lunigiana (Museum of Natural History of Lunigiana), a playground, and one of Italy's very rare pet cemeteries.

Aulla's oldest monument is the Abbazia di San Caprasio (Abbey of San Caprasio), whose first construction dates back to the year 884. Inside the complex is the Museo di San Caprasio (Museum of the Pilgrim of San Caprasio), which houses the findings of recent archaeological excavations that uncovered the saint's tomb in 2003. In the vault of the cloister stands the fascinating "Vangelo di pietra," (Gospel of stone) a display of medieval capitals found here.

A must-see for visitors to the town is the Fortezza della Brunella (Brunella Fortress), named after the hill on which it was built in the mid-16th century. The fort is a typical example of Renaissance-style military architecture, arranged for defense against firearms attacks. It is an almost square building with large polygonal struts that today - after a series of restorations - houses the Museo di Storia Naturale della Lunigiana (Museum of Natural History of Lunigiana), a playground, and one of Italy's very rare pet cemeteries.

In the surroundings

The Lunigiana region is particularly good for hiking and cycling enthusiasts who, setting out from Aulla, can follow the Via Francigena along the Aulla–Pontremoli (Stage 23) and Aulla–Sarzana (Stage 24) sections. 

In June 2025, a bike and pedestrian path built along the former railway track of the old Pontremolese line on the Via Francigena route was inaugurated. This stretch connects the area around Via Piave, near the former undercover market, with Via della Resistenza, passing through a green space overlooking the Magra River. At 665 meters or 2180 feet long, it is well-lit and accessible to all, having been designed for those who enjoy walking, running or biking safely, just a stone’s throw from downtown.

Another area that offers well-marked trails, such as the Magra River Greenway, is the Magra River Protected Natural Area in Lunigiana that includes 2 Protected Natural Areas of Local Interest. The 1ˢᵗ is managed by the Lunigiana Mountain Municipalities Union and the 2ⁿᵈ by the Municipality of Filattiera. In addition to its natural beauty, it is home to important historical monuments linked to the Via Francigena, such as the Abbey of San Caprasio and the Parish Church of Sorano, protecting riverine habitats rich in biodiversity, featuring willow groves, alder groves and numerous bird species, offering an experience that blends nature and history.

Among the places to visit in the area around Aulla are the small villages perched on the hills, such as Bibola , whose ancient origins date back to classical times, precisely to the 7ᵗʰ century. The village preserves the ruins of the Malaspina Castle Tower, the Church of San Bartolomeo with its Ligurian-style mosaic churchyard, as well as charming stone houses with covered passageways. 

Another historic village worth visiting is Caprigliola (12ᵗʰ century), situated on a strategic hill along the ancient trade routes, with its elegant cylindrical tower. The village is part of the Colli di Luni DOC region and thus combines history, culture and winemaking tradition. 

In the hamlet of Pallerone, the mechanical nativity scene—one of the oldest in Italy—is truly captivating. Nearby, you can visit a little museum to admire pieces from antique nativity scenes, including the motor that powered the sacred performance staged in 1937, plus a photo gallery displaying other antique specimens.

The Lunigiana region is particularly good for hiking and cycling enthusiasts who, setting out from Aulla, can follow the Via Francigena along the Aulla–Pontremoli (Stage 23) and Aulla–Sarzana (Stage 24) sections. 

In June 2025, a bike and pedestrian path built along the former railway track of the old Pontremolese line on the Via Francigena route was inaugurated. This stretch connects the area around Via Piave, near the former undercover market, with Via della Resistenza, passing through a green space overlooking the Magra River. At 665 meters or 2180 feet long, it is well-lit and accessible to all, having been designed for those who enjoy walking, running or biking safely, just a stone’s throw from downtown.

Another area that offers well-marked trails, such as the Magra River Greenway, is the Magra River Protected Natural Area in Lunigiana that includes 2 Protected Natural Areas of Local Interest. The 1ˢᵗ is managed by the Lunigiana Mountain Municipalities Union and the 2ⁿᵈ by the Municipality of Filattiera. In addition to its natural beauty, it is home to important historical monuments linked to the Via Francigena, such as the Abbey of San Caprasio and the Parish Church of Sorano, protecting riverine habitats rich in biodiversity, featuring willow groves, alder groves and numerous bird species, offering an experience that blends nature and history.

Among the places to visit in the area around Aulla are the small villages perched on the hills, such as Bibola , whose ancient origins date back to classical times, precisely to the 7ᵗʰ century. The village preserves the ruins of the Malaspina Castle Tower, the Church of San Bartolomeo with its Ligurian-style mosaic churchyard, as well as charming stone houses with covered passageways. 

Another historic village worth visiting is Caprigliola (12ᵗʰ century), situated on a strategic hill along the ancient trade routes, with its elegant cylindrical tower. The village is part of the Colli di Luni DOC region and thus combines history, culture and winemaking tradition. 

In the hamlet of Pallerone, the mechanical nativity scene—one of the oldest in Italy—is truly captivating. Nearby, you can visit a little museum to admire pieces from antique nativity scenes, including the motor that powered the sacred performance staged in 1937, plus a photo gallery displaying other antique specimens.

Typical dishes and products

Typical dishes include the focaccette: flatbreads made of wheat and corn flour cooked in earthenware pots and eaten still warm along with cheese and cured meats, as well as many other local dishes including torta d'erbi (a savory pie with herbs), panigacci (a kind of round bread), testaroli (a kind of pasta), and sweet or savory dishes made with chestnut flour from Lunigiana PDO.

Typical dishes include the focaccette: flatbreads made of wheat and corn flour cooked in earthenware pots and eaten still warm along with cheese and cured meats, as well as many other local dishes including torta d'erbi (a savory pie with herbs), panigacci (a kind of round bread), testaroli (a kind of pasta), and sweet or savory dishes made with chestnut flour from Lunigiana PDO.

Events

One of the best times to taste local specialties are the festivals held in small villages such as Vaccareccia where for three weekends in September you can taste typical flatbreads and other typical dishes.

One of the best times to taste local specialties are the festivals held in small villages such as Vaccareccia where for three weekends in September you can taste typical flatbreads and other typical dishes.

What’s nearby?

Must-see places, stage-by-stage routes, events and tips for your trip

Lunigiana

Lunigiana
All the charm and nuances of a thousand-year-old land, borderline but with infinite nature
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