Dinner in the Lunigiana should definitely begin with a plate that in these parts is as trustworthy as an unbroken promise: the torta d’erbe (or d’erbi, as they say here). You’ll find a certain variety in the creation of this poor dish – essentially a quiche – prepared according to tradition with wild herbs and seasonal vegetables (chards, onions, wild spinach, asparagus, leeks and carrots) mixed with ricotta, pecorino cheese, eggs and breadcrumbs. The filling is placed inside a thin puff pastry and cooked in the oven, or better yet, using a testo, a portable cast iron surface. The quiche is then cut into four pieces before being served, but don’t eat too much! There’s more to come.