Secret glimpses and great stories in the Valdichiana Aretina

Perched on a hill peppered with olive trees at an altitude of over 500 meters (1640 feet), Civitella in Val di Chiana welcomes visitors with the majestic silhouette of its walls and an atmosphere frozen in time, where the stone architecture tells the story of its past as a strategic stronghold. The undisputed symbol and visual centerpiece of the town is the ancient Rocca Longobarda, one of the best-preserved examples of the fortresses built between the 6ᵗʰ and 7ᵗʰ centuries to control the main routes through central Italy.

Perched on the highest point of the village, the fortress took the form of an imposing tower-palace and, in 1248, became the residence of choice for the powerful Bishop of Arezzo, Guglielmino degli Ubertini. Stretching all around it is the splendid elliptical-shaped fortified city wall, built in 1272, punctuated by square towers and interrupted by the monumental Porta Aretina. Today, the evocative ruins of the “Torre Spaccata”—“Broken Tower”, damaged as it was by bombing during World War II—stand as a poignant memorial. From atop the castle, the view stretches out over a breathtaking panorama that takes in the Tuscan valley and extends as far as the eye can see toward Lucignano and Cortona.

Not far away, nestled in a well-ordered and picturesque agricultural landscape, Marciano della Chiana stands out with its imposing tower and perfectly preserved layout as a fortified town. This charming little village is linked to one of the pivotal events of Renaissance history: the 1554 Battle of Scannagallo, which was fought in the surrounding area and is reenacted each year in nearby Pozzo della Chiana.

Today, Marciano della Chiana brings the memory of those great feats to life in a captivating story, where a visit to the castle and tower offers unforgettable panoramic views and the sensation of retracing the steps of military leaders and knights.

As you descend toward the flat, fertile heart of the valley, you’ll come across Foiano della Chiana, a lively little town that will surprise you with the richness of its artistic and folkloric heritage. Foiano della Chiana’s religious buildings house an extraordinary treasure trove of glazed terracotta works created by the masters of the Della Robbia workshop, whose shades of white and blue still shimmer to this day with undimmed brilliance.

But the village’s vitality is also most fully expressed in the enthusiasm of its people, here being the birthplace of Italy’s oldest Carnevale—a historic event that transforms the town center into a hub of creativity, art and widespread celebration each year.