Hermitages perched atop high slopes, medieval hilltowns of unimaginable beauty, and nature that changes drastically within a few dozen kilometres: these are only some of the jewels of the Valtiberina, that part of the Tuscan Apennines which remains largely unknown even today.
You can discover it through four breathtaking nature reserves in five days, an itinerary aimed at nature lovers and art lovers alike, and also at families eager to explore the Tuscan Apennines.
We start from the west, with the Upper Tiber Valley - Monte Nero Nature Reserve. A number of trails begin here; the boldest walkers can get up to 1234 metres above sea level and enjoy the view from the top of Monte Nero.
If you want to tread a path between culture and spirituality, you could visit the mystic sanctuary of La Verna: one of the most important sanctuaries of the Franciscan order, it is built on an overhanging cliff deep in the woodland. It is here that St Francis received the stigmata. The monks spare no effort in welcoming pilgrims from all over the world.
You can go down into the valley to visit the rather poignant Little Diary Museum in Pieve Santo Stefano, an interactive museum with immense collection of autobiographical stories. Through a multimedia installation, visitors can open doors and drawers to find and hear the extraordinary stories of ordinary people.
We start the second day by heading to the little town of Caprese Michelangelo, where you can visit the house - now a museum - in which the great artist Michelangelo Buonarroti was born. Back in the car, we drive on for a few kilometres and come to the Monti Rognosi Nature Reserve, where the Roccia Serpente, a strange green stone born from underwater magma, is ubiquitous. Here you can enjoy the hospitality of the Locanda del Viandante, and make a stop at the visitors' centre 'La Fabbrica della Natura' (Nature's Farm) to play around with the innovative themed installations and discover all the peculiarities of this unusual natural park. You will lose yourself in the world of bees, remedial herbs and old mines, as you move between rivers and kaleidoscopic cliffs. You can finish the day by climbing to a natural panoramic terrace, from which you will have a spectacular sunset view over Lake Montedoglio.
The third day is dedicated to getting to know the local hilltowns. We begin with the enchanting medieval town of Anghiari, which featured at the forefront of Leonardo Da Vinci's masterpiece The Battle of Anghiari. The innovative civic museum, which is devoted to Da Vinci, takes you right back to 1440 and plunges you into the midst of the bloody soldiers.
Walking through the alleyways and inspecting the artisan workshops, you will easily fall in love with this gorgeous little town. One of its distinguishing features is the Ruga di San Martino, a road that really has to be admired from its highest point. Known also as the "Anghiari Straight", this vast road runs from east to west, linking two places beloved of St Francis: the della Croce church, at the top of the road, and the hermitage of Montecasale, which sits at the top of the little town of Sansepolcro. Every year, in the middle of July, the sun rises and shines straight down the Ruga. It is a magnificent sight.
Following the "Anghiari Straight" leads you to Sansepolcro, the birthplace of Piero della Francesca. We recommend a visit to his home and to the town museum, which holds some of his most important works. Another interesting destination is the museum of medicinal plants. Finally, enjoy a relaxing walk along the high street or an equally relaxing aperitivo in the square.
"...the old folk say that vast treasures lie on top of the Alpe. But no one has ever managed to touch the moon and take them..."
The Alpe della Luna is a mountain a few miles from Sansepolcro, and it is haunted by the legend of two lovers in search of treasure. You will feel all your senses at peace on this mountainside, as you immerse yourself in the greenery. Here, in an unspoiled backdrop of beech, maple and limewood tree, you might find the indigenous cardoon or the shy Alpine newt; you might hear the footfall of pilgrims walking the paths of the Way of St Francis. In this area you will find only one building in which to take a rest, but here you cantaste some donkey's milk from the local farm and admire the donkeys as they freely graze.
Last day: get ready to walk a road with a tremendous view, one that will take you to the Sasso di Simone Nature Reserve. Along the route, not far before the evocative village of Sestino, you will able to spot the various species of animals that live in the Ranco Spinoso Park. Once in Sestino, you'll be able to feel the mountain air in your lungs, and the Visitors' Centre of the Sasso di Simone Nature Reserve will be able to recommend you the best way to start exploring one of most incredible nature reserves of the central Apennines. To end the journey on a particular high, go in search of the best view of the Fortezza Fantasma that you can find. This enormous rock, which originally came from the Tyrrhenian Sea, will be a memorable surprise, and the panorama from its peak is truly unique.
