Our tour of the Versilia’s cuisine stars in Viareggio, the main fishing port in the area and which to this day bears traces of its seafaring roots. It's worth your time to visit one of the many morning fish markets in town, like the centrally located piazza Cavour, which is surrounded by historic shops including the Volpe fishmonger's.
One of Viareggio's best known and oldest dishes is cèe in padella, pan fried eel traditionally made with garlic and sage and recently reinterpreted with the addition of lemon zest. This dish has strong roots in Viareggio’s traditions and is made with eel fry (locally known as cieche or cèe) which, once upon a time, were caught as they swam up the mouth of the Burlamacca River. Today, this fishing practice is forbidden and the eel fry are farm-raised. Viareggio also offers sparnocchi con fagioli, a local shell fish cooked with beans.