Fast forward to the 19th century to arrive at the Church of San Giovanni Evangelista. Built between 1841 and 1845 atop an existing church—the original belltower of which still stands—its understated look belies the many battles it’s endured, including earthquake damage in 1846 and a canon shot in 1944. Having undergone an elaborate restoration in 1973, its interior shines a light on Tuscan art of the 20th century. The standout feature is the frescoed apse, carried out in 1955 by Stefano Ghezzani and depicting the Last Supper and Christ in glory. Also worth noting: if you’re here in December, the deconsecrated oratory of Santissima Annunziata, which is connected to the church, hosts a charming “Presepe” (nativity scene) with electronically powered movements.