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Under Giotto’s sky: an itinerary in the Mugello area

An itinerary following the footsteps of Giotto, revolutionary artist of the Early Renaissance, who was born in the Mugello region

by  Mugello

Documents and historical records reveal that renowned artist Giotto and his family had a strong connection to Mugello. Lying just outside the northern gates of Florence, the area is home to important 14th-century works by the founder of Italian painting. Here, you can trace the path of this great Master in the area much-loved by the Medici family.

1.
Leg 1
Vicchio, the birthplace of Giotto

Our first stop is the town of Vicchiothe birthplace of the artist. Here we can visit the Museum of Sacred Art “Beato Angelico” and admire “St. John the Baptist” by Bernardo Daddi, Giotto's pupil. Among the other Medieval masterpieces, we can admire the marble holy water font (early 13th century), the “Madonna with child” of the Master of the Strauss Madonna and valuable liturgical vestments, which include a 14th-century cross and chalice.   

Our first stop is the town of Vicchiothe birthplace of the artist. Here we can visit the Museum of Sacred Art “Beato Angelico” and admire “St. John the Baptist” by Bernardo Daddi, Giotto's pupil. Among the other Medieval masterpieces, we can admire the marble holy water font (early 13th century), the “Madonna with child” of the Master of the Strauss Madonna and valuable liturgical vestments, which include a 14th-century cross and chalice.   

2.
Leg 2
The House of Giotto

From Vicchio, our itinerary takes us to Borgo San Lorenzo in the area of Vespignano. Awaiting us is the Home of Giotto Museum near the remains of the centuries-old Castle and the splendid San Martino Church, where one of the artist’s children would later become the parish priest. Continuing along the main road, we find the Ponte alla Ragnaia where legend tells us that Giotto first met his master Cimabue (circa 1240-1302).

According to Lorenzo Ghiberti’s, Cimabue was on his way back to Florence from Bologna where he came across the talented young shephard, Giotto, who was sketching one of his sheep on a stone. In awe of his talent, he invited him to join him in his workshop in Florence. Dante immortalised the occasion in the Divine Comedy, Purgatorio 11, 91-94:

“In painting Cimabue thought he held / the field, and now it’s Giotto they acclaim / the former only keeps a shadowed fame.”

From Vicchio, our itinerary takes us to Borgo San Lorenzo in the area of Vespignano. Awaiting us is the Home of Giotto Museum near the remains of the centuries-old Castle and the splendid San Martino Church, where one of the artist’s children would later become the parish priest. Continuing along the main road, we find the Ponte alla Ragnaia where legend tells us that Giotto first met his master Cimabue (circa 1240-1302).

According to Lorenzo Ghiberti’s, Cimabue was on his way back to Florence from Bologna where he came across the talented young shephard, Giotto, who was sketching one of his sheep on a stone. In awe of his talent, he invited him to join him in his workshop in Florence. Dante immortalised the occasion in the Divine Comedy, Purgatorio 11, 91-94:

“In painting Cimabue thought he held / the field, and now it’s Giotto they acclaim / the former only keeps a shadowed fame.”

3.
Leg 3
The Madonna with Child in Borgo San Lorenzo, attributed to Giotto

We continue in the historic centre of Borgo San Lorenzo to visit the Romanesque San Lorenzo Church, home to the “Madonna with child”, one of Giotto‘s early works (circa 1280- 90). The fragment is part of a larger work and is testimony to the artist's beginnings in Mugello, his native land.

This is accompanied by works from the late 14th century: "Madonna with the goldfinch" by Agnolo Gaddi (1396), a wooden crucifix by Lorenzo Monaco (circa 1391-1423) - a pupil of Agnolo Gaddi‘s, the "Madonna with child" by Niccolò di Pietro Gerini (1415) who was close to Taddeo Gaddi, the father of Agnolo, and Giotto’s pupil.

We continue in the historic centre of Borgo San Lorenzo to visit the Romanesque San Lorenzo Church, home to the “Madonna with child”, one of Giotto‘s early works (circa 1280- 90). The fragment is part of a larger work and is testimony to the artist's beginnings in Mugello, his native land.

This is accompanied by works from the late 14th century: "Madonna with the goldfinch" by Agnolo Gaddi (1396), a wooden crucifix by Lorenzo Monaco (circa 1391-1423) - a pupil of Agnolo Gaddi‘s, the "Madonna with child" by Niccolò di Pietro Gerini (1415) who was close to Taddeo Gaddi, the father of Agnolo, and Giotto’s pupil.

4.
Leg 4
Hidden treasures in Scaperia

Palazzo dei Vicari (the Governor’s Palace) in Scarperia hosts awe-inspiring 14th-century frescoes in the entrance hall and the Saints by Mariotto di Nardo di Cione (active around 1388 to 1424/27), nephew of Andrea Orcagna, and who collaborated with Niccolò di Pietro Gerini. In the Oratorio della Madonna di Piazza (circa 1320), a late Gothic niche holds a Madonna with child and angels attributed to Jacopo del Casentino (before 1349), a work by an original and captivating artist who was clearly of the Giotto school.

Palazzo dei Vicari (the Governor’s Palace) in Scarperia hosts awe-inspiring 14th-century frescoes in the entrance hall and the Saints by Mariotto di Nardo di Cione (active around 1388 to 1424/27), nephew of Andrea Orcagna, and who collaborated with Niccolò di Pietro Gerini. In the Oratorio della Madonna di Piazza (circa 1320), a late Gothic niche holds a Madonna with child and angels attributed to Jacopo del Casentino (before 1349), a work by an original and captivating artist who was clearly of the Giotto school.

5.
Leg 5
The lovely Sant'Agata

St. Agata Parish Church is a treasure trove of masterpieces including: a marble statue of the Saint by the Pisano school (circa 1320); St. Catherine of Alexandria in the style of Cenni di Francesco (1369-1415); the altar reliquary which consists of various fragments of wooden panel depicting St. Agata and St. Lucia (1385-90) and attributed to the Florentine school of Jacopo di Cione, a member of a family of artists among whom we find Andrea, also known as Orcagna (1368). Jacopo was also the author of the Madonna with child (1383), found in the apse chapel on the right. In the adjacent Museum of Sacred Art, we can admire the "Madonna with child and the saints", by Maestro Nicholaus (1345), and the tabernacle frescoed by the Florentine Ambrogio di Baldese (1352-1429), who collaborated with Niccolò di Pietro Gerini. 

St. Agata Parish Church is a treasure trove of masterpieces including: a marble statue of the Saint by the Pisano school (circa 1320); St. Catherine of Alexandria in the style of Cenni di Francesco (1369-1415); the altar reliquary which consists of various fragments of wooden panel depicting St. Agata and St. Lucia (1385-90) and attributed to the Florentine school of Jacopo di Cione, a member of a family of artists among whom we find Andrea, also known as Orcagna (1368). Jacopo was also the author of the Madonna with child (1383), found in the apse chapel on the right. In the adjacent Museum of Sacred Art, we can admire the "Madonna with child and the saints", by Maestro Nicholaus (1345), and the tabernacle frescoed by the Florentine Ambrogio di Baldese (1352-1429), who collaborated with Niccolò di Pietro Gerini. 

6.
Leg 6
The Convent of Bosco ai Frati

In the sacristy of the Bosco ai Frati Convent, we find a fresco portraying St. Francis of Assisi set in a mixtilinear frame (Anonymous, 14th century). There are clear indicators that it is of the Giotto school given the realistic features and the volume of the drapery.       

In the sacristy of the Bosco ai Frati Convent, we find a fresco portraying St. Francis of Assisi set in a mixtilinear frame (Anonymous, 14th century). There are clear indicators that it is of the Giotto school given the realistic features and the volume of the drapery.       

7.
Leg 7
Jacopo del Casentino in Crespino sul Lamone and beyond

From Borgo S. Lorenzo, the itinerary moves towards Marradi where we can take in the breathtaking landscape of the quaint town of Crespino sul Lamone. In St. Maria Nascente Church, part of the historic Vallumbrosan Abbey, we find the tented wood panel portraying the "Madonna with child and the angels" attributed to Jacopo del Casentino, dated 1342.

From Mugello, we can continue our tour to Florence where the presence of Giotto is dated 1314 and onwards. In 1327, he became a member of the Arte dei medici e speziali, an association of artists, and was the director of a thriving workshop. In 1334, while Capomastro dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore (master artist), he designed the famous Campanile (bell-tower), which bears his name. He died while travelling home from Milan in 1337 and was buried in Santa Reparata, in the crypt which lies under the Florentine Cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore. He left behind numerous precious masterpieces in the most important churches and museums in the city: Santa Croce Church, Santa Maria Novella, the Horne Museum and the Uffizi Gallery.

From Borgo S. Lorenzo, the itinerary moves towards Marradi where we can take in the breathtaking landscape of the quaint town of Crespino sul Lamone. In St. Maria Nascente Church, part of the historic Vallumbrosan Abbey, we find the tented wood panel portraying the "Madonna with child and the angels" attributed to Jacopo del Casentino, dated 1342.

From Mugello, we can continue our tour to Florence where the presence of Giotto is dated 1314 and onwards. In 1327, he became a member of the Arte dei medici e speziali, an association of artists, and was the director of a thriving workshop. In 1334, while Capomastro dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore (master artist), he designed the famous Campanile (bell-tower), which bears his name. He died while travelling home from Milan in 1337 and was buried in Santa Reparata, in the crypt which lies under the Florentine Cathedral, Santa Maria del Fiore. He left behind numerous precious masterpieces in the most important churches and museums in the city: Santa Croce Church, Santa Maria Novella, the Horne Museum and the Uffizi Gallery.

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