The late 19th and early 20th centuries were characterized by an artistic ferment that also reached Italy. In this article, we will focus on the Liberty style, which spread to Tuscany following the 1902 Turin Exhibition of Modern Decorative Art.
On the topic of Liberty style in Tuscany, the beautiful buildings of Versilia immediately spring to mind, but the reality is that there was movement throughout the region, leaving behind traces in the urban fabric.
Among various cities, Livorno, with its villas, spas, hotels and buildings, is a true gem for Liberty style (the Italian variant of Art Nouveau) which is still little known and has so much to offer to those who choose to spend a weekend enjoying art and relaxation.
We begin our journey to discover the Liberty style in Livorno from what could be called the gateway to the city: the Central Station. The station was inaugurated in 1910, with King Vittorio Emanuele taking part in the ceremony.
The building is a beautiful example of Tuscan Art Nouveau, and is the work of Angelo Badaloni, chief architect of the Municipality of Livorno. It is to him, Luigi Pastore, Gino Cipriani and the designer Cioni, that we owe the pleasure of having Tuscan works in this new style as they brought it here as it was raging throughout Europe. The station is therefore an excellent starting point for exploring the area that's features many private villas, some of which were built by Badaloni himself that are well-worth exploring. To see them, take a walk in the streets around the station, including via Giovanni Fattori and viale Carducci.
Another unmissable stop on our first day in Livorno is the Terme Corallo or Acque della Salute thermal spa. This building was also built from 1903 as part of a project by Angelo Badaloni. Despite having since then suffered a state of neglect, it maintains the charm of an elegant Art Nouveau structure decorated with majolica and frescoes by the Florentine artist, Ernesto Bellandi.
To finish off the day, we recommend that you take a walk in via Marradi and in via Roma where there are several liberty houses decorated with floral motifs. If, on the other hand, you prefer to delve deeper into the artistic movements of the 20th century, the Fattori Museum is a true gem in the city. Here, there are works of the Macchiaioli, post-Macchiaioli and divisionist artistic periods exhibited.
The perfect end to a day in Livorno, however, involves your taste buds. It's impossible to resist the high quality culinary products of the area: torta di ceci, caciucco, or triglie alla livornese.
We begin the second day of our trip by moving from our exploration of the historic centre to the seafront that's also perfect for a bike ride.
We start from the Mascagni Terrace to enjoy a romantic view of the islands of the Tuscan archipelago and take a long walk to the Universal Hotel.
The Liberty style in this area is an explosion of decorations, gates and railings that are characteristic of the spas, bathing establishments and large hotels of this period.
Walking along Viale Italia, it's impossible not to notice the many villas and hotels built in different styles that range from eclecticism to liberty style and the neo-Gothic. Also on viale Italia stands La Baracchina Rossa, built where the Chalet Alhambra was located in 1897. It was a meeting place for the bourgeois, intellectuals and artists who lived in Livorno in those years. Since the thirties, the Chalet Alhambra has given way to the La Baracchina café and today, it's a must to enjoy a good coffee or aperitivo with friends.
The walk continues along Viale di Antignano to reach the Universal Hotel or Villa Chayes. The villa was built as a colonial structure in the mid-19th century and underwent several changes to get to its present appearance which is both impressive and elegant.
Returning to the historic centre of Livorno, there's certainly no shortage of things to see and do. The Venice district is another unmissable place, a truly picturesque area in the city with canals and navigable waterways that allow you to see the city from an unique point of view with boat trips.
And if you are looking for a place to stock up on local delicacies, end your day at the Mercato delle Vettovaglie. The market is open in the evening and on weekends, and is perfect for buying typical products and also for admiring the signs of change in aesthetic taste from neoclassicism to art nouveau. The interior spaces of the market are in fact connected by two neoclassical style galleries, while the exterior is characterized by the use of steel and glass that became the most used materials in Art Nouveau architecture.
