The Via Lauretana in Tuscany
Walking from Siena to Cortona, in the footsteps of the old pilgrims
The Via Lauretana is an ancient Etrusco-Roman road that connects Cortona to Montepulciano and Siena. Used and expanded like so many other Roman roads, it was conceived as a link between Cortona and the Etruscan cities on the sea. It then became a pilgrimage route, which for centuries connected Siena, and therefore the Via Francigena, with Cortona, spanning six Tuscan municipalities as it winds towards the Santa Casa of Loreto.
A heavily-trafficked road in the fifteenth, sixteen and seventeenth centuries, it deviated from the Via Francigena at Siena and led to Camucia, at the foot of Cortona, via Asciano, Sinalunga, Torrita di Siena and Montepulciano, crossing the walled bridge over the River Clanis to arrive at the castle of Valiano, and finally Cortono itself. From Cortona, the ancient Via Lauretana hugged the eastern shore of Lake Trasimeno as it went through Passignano, clipped Perugia and continued in the direction of Foligno, in Umbria. From here it unfolded towards the Appenines of Umbria and Le Marche, conquering the heights of the Colfiorito Pass and finally reaching Loreto, in Le Marche.
Distance: 19.5 km
Ascent: 430 m
Descent: 395 m
From Siena you come to the hamlet of Arbia, where you take the provincial Lauretana (SP 438) and embark upon a first stretch of dirt track. In this stage, the Via Lauretana climbs to the peak of the biancane around Leonina, and then sticks to the crest on a clay, almost lunar-looking path. Pay attention: the clay underfoot in the rainy season is truly an experience that is not forgotten easily!
Keeping to the route, you arrive at a permanent stone installation by Jean Paul Philippe, a “Transitory Site” where passers-by can find a seat and a window angled to catch the last ray of sun on the summer solstice.
The route continues to Mucigliani, along a path that offers a 360-degree view of the Sienese countryside, right up to the start of the provincial road. Walk with care, heeding the signs that often instruct you to walk on the side of the asphalt road, and continue to the little settlement of Vescona, an important castle once upon a time.
Distance: 23 km
Ascent: 639 m
Descent: 641 m
Leave Vescona and take the dirt track, which is used for the famous L’Eroica cycle race. You shortly arrive at Monte Sante Marie, which was an important strategic site for control of the territory during the Lombard era. Walking on, you come to the hilltown of Asciano, whose main street, Corso Matteotti, and side streets show countless examples of devotional tablets dedicated to the Madonna, affixed to the walls of private houses or to street corners as expressions of communal piety. Once out of the historic centre, you arrive at the parish church of Sant’Ippolito (the oldest church in the town of Asciano), which is private but open to visitors on appointment. The route proceeds along field edges and then on an asphalt road, eventually winding up in the hilltown of Serre di Rapolano.
Distance: 18.5 km
Ascent: 614 m
Descent: 610 m
The Lauretana leaves Serre di Rapolano to reach the castle and estate of San Gimignanello, where you can stop for a visit and a bite to eat (booking necessary). The route then takes an old right of way easement among fields and woods, before emerging on an asphalt road that bears the Via Lauretana name: walk it for around 2.5 km (be aware that the asphalt road is often flanked by little pedestrian paths, to help you avoid the traffic). The route takes you through the old village of Scrofiano and into the main square of Sinalunga.
Distance: 23.8 km
Ascent: 306 m
Descent: 346 m
Leave the main square of Sinalunga and start upon the provincial Siena – Perugia road. Cross the main road with the aid of a pedestrian crossing and continue until the old estate of Fratta. Tick off the village of Torrita and go on to the hamlet of Greppo. The route continues over dirt tracks, between fields and country farmsteads known as the “Leopoldine”. Follow the cycle-footpath of the Sentiero della Bonifica for around 3km before reaching the town of Valiano, an old feudal castle which for centuries ensured safe passage for pilgrims who were heading towards Loreto.
Distance: 23.5 km
Ascent: 495 m
Descent: 317 m
Once out of Valiano, take the asphalt road for a kilometre or so, until it gives way to gravel again. Here the Tuscan Lauretana jumps into Umbria for a brief stretch, but the landscape remains arable fields and vineyards until the overpass over the entry onto the Siena-Bettolle motorway. The Via Lauretana then rises towards Cortona, frequently opening up to magnificent views over the Valdichiana, and arrives at Piazza Garibaldi, the entrance to the city’s historic centre.
For details on the route download this pdf file with a description of the various stages.
