Are you beginning to flag? Order a bag of scagliozzi in the old fish-and-chip shop in Via del Cardinale and walk through the colourful, noisy stalls of Piazza Cavalotti, the city's market district. Once you get through the stands you will find reach one of the entrances to the Mercato delle Vettovaglie, a historic covered market that developed inside a late 18th-century palazzo, designed by architect Angiolo Badaloni. Walk through the galleries, raise your eyes to admire the beautiful, metallically-trussed ceiling, and look for the shops that sell legumes and spices in little jute bags.
The market gives you the chance to buy the freshest fish, brought directly from the sea by a chain of boats that reach the centre via the waterways. The Mercato delle Vettovaglie is also in the perfect location to organise a lunch of street food and local specialities. You have two options: savour the Cinque e Cinque from Gargarin (a chickpea tart with a loaf of French bread and, for those who enjoy it, aubergines with pesto), or take yourself to Osteria La Barrocciaia and ask for the famous 'panini di Giovanni'. Order a 'Fantasia' with salsa verde and let Giovanni's descendant Tommaso tell you the story of this precious hangout.