3 days in Val di Chiana for spas and sport lovers

Begin in Chianciano Terme, a happy spa town on the border between the Val d'Orcia, whose crags are protected by UNESCO, and the Val di Chiana, covered in vineyards. The town, settled and esteemed by the Etruscans, is home to the Civic Archaeological Museum of the Waters, which displays countless materials unearthed locally. The collection vaunts a gallery featuring the canopic jars from the Tolle burial ground, a reconstruction of a seventh-century BCE princely tomb and some decorations of the Fucoli Etruscan temple.

But visiting Chianciano is really all about the town’s spas, enjoyed by important figures in the past, such as Italian writer Pirandello. Incredible water gushes forth in the wellness centres, recommended for treating the liver, osteoporosis and urinary infections. In addition to the healing properties, Chianciano’s spas offer special treatments to purify, energize and rebalance the mind and body. Massages, colour therapry, aromatherapy showers, saunas and steam rooms: here you actually find peace for the senses!

Finish the day locally with a stop in Sarteano. Stroll through the medieval village and stand in awe of the impressive castle, which dominates the town from its heights. If you’re feeling active, after a morning at the spa, head for the Pietraporciana Nature Reserve, one of the wilder protected areas in the Siena province. Follow the hiking routes into the picturesque beech woods and observe all the flowers that grow here, from primroses to anemones and martagon lilies, rare examples of the lily family.

Day Two: head to Cetona, where you’ll be amazed by the Museum for the Prehistory of Monte Cetona. The collection documents the area’s history and its inhabitants since Paleolithic Age. A short detour takes us to the prehistoric settlement of Belverde, with its system of 25 caves that were settled 40,000 years ago. The Archeodromo di Belverde, close to the archaeological area, is an educational pathway designed to complete a visit to the museum and park. Guided tours and workshops are held locally (disabled access to the entire site, except the caves).

Sport and hiking lovers will feel at home here. Monte Cetona is the highest point in all of the Val di Chiana, populated with foxes, badgers, deer, buzzards and other birds of prey, porcupines and wild deer. Monte Cetona is best explored on foot, horseback or by mountain bike, along the many trails that wind through the woodland.

After the village of Cetona, continue towards Chiusi for an afternoon of history and mystery. In the Etruscan village, visit the Porsenna Labyrinth, a set of underground tunnels that run beneath the historic centre of Chiusi. These tunnels, filled with inscriptions and urns in alabaster, marble and travertine, were mentioned by Pliny the Elder in his Naturalis Historiae, which chronicles Marcus Terentius Varro’s news about the existence of a wonderful Mausoleum of Porsenna.

After your nature and history exertions, finish the day with a plate of pici: hand-rolled pasta shaped like fat, uneven spaghetti. Or opt for brustico, freshwater fish cooked over a grill of lake reeds.

Continue the bike ride by heading for Lake Chiusi and Lake Montepulciano, or “i chiari” as the locals call them in the Val di Chiana. Just cast a glance from one of the many villages that overlook the valley, point east and the dim light of the two lakes appears, two thin veils of water poised like two nativity scenes in the countryside. The lakes are very small and very shallow, but their impact on the ecosystem throughout the area is notable. 

Having helped the local economy for centuries with fishing, they are now two important nature parks, where rare flora and fauna have found their perfect habitat. Take a ride in one of the typical boats, paddling into the most secret corners of the lakes. Seeing a purple heron or a little egret among the reeds is an unforgettable experience.

From Lake Montepulciano, head to the town. On the way, marvel at the vineyard-lined hills, which produces the delicious Vino Nobile. End the weekend with a coffee in the main piazza or at the Terme di Montepulciano, harnessing the healing properties of mud and water. The centre recommends treatments for respiratory ailments, arthritis, rheumatism and skin problems. A relaxing afternoon will reinvigorate you to tackle everyday life again.