Massa: a trip through mines, wines, and timeless flavours
A journey between the waterfront and the mountains
If you love culinary culture and its attendant traditions, we recommend a trip through the land around Massa, a city-symbol of history and handcrafted, artisanal excellence. From its blue waves to its mountainous peaks, blanched with white marble, you will discover the true quintessence of this magical part of the world.
From an enogastronomic point of view, the Apuan Alps are famous of the production of lard. Even if this itinerary does not involve the town of Colonnata, where the Colonnata lard IGP is produced, you can find this prized foodstuff, which is seasoned in the marble caves, anywhere from Carrara onwards. Upon reaching Campo Cecina - a locality some 19 kilometres from Carrara that offers a breathtaking view over the marble basins and the sea - you should not pass up the opportunity to try the local delicacy, farcita foccaccia with lard, which is ideally accompanied with a Vermentino from the Candia hills.
This part of Tuscany does not lack for special events, such as the International Sculpture Symposium, which runs from July to September in Carrara; the spectacles at the Cava dei Poeti (July to August, also Carrara); the medieval festival of Fosdinovo (the first weekend of July), and, also at Fosdinovo, but in September, the festival of "sgonfiotto", a stuffed, fried sweet, typical of the area.
From Massa to Marina di Carrara
The journey begins at Massa, a city that strikes you immediately with its imposing Malaspina Castle, which dominates the city from its perch on a rocky outcrop; its Palazzo Ducale, which looks onto the beautiful Piazza Aranci; and the Duomo, which dates back to the Middle Ages, but which has been expanded and embellished numerous times over the centuries.
The magnificent venue of Villa La Rinchiostra is home to a fascinating exhibition, dedicated to the internationally famous sculptor Gigi Guadagnucci, who was born in Massa and who donated his work to his native city.
From the Marina di Massa you can walk along the waterfront in the direction of the Marina di Carrara.
Carrara
After the port, we eventually arrive at Carrara. The Accademia di Belle Arti deserves a visit, as does the Duomo, Piazza Alberica, the Museum of San Francesco and the CARMI – the Carrara and Michelangelo Museum. Once through the historic centre, you embark on the SS 446 and head for Fosdinovo.
The road takes you uphill and past the towns of Gragnana and Castelpoggio, which affords you a stunning view over the entire plain of Luni, Marinella and Montemarcello.
Fosdinovo
You press onwards to Fosdinovo, an ancient territory that commands the plains of Val di Magra and Luni. The air that you breathe along its roads is the air of a borderland: you sense the sea, without ever forgetting the mountains. Its cuisine lies waiting to be discovered, and there is no shortage of high-quality restaurants in which to discover it.
Once in Fosdinovo, we recommend that you try the local “sgabei”, which are filled with cheese and cured meats, and ideally accompanied by a Colli dei Luni Vermentino.
